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Holiday Inn Sunspree - November 2 - November 9, 2007
By Cheryl
My friend Joe and I decided we needed to get away for
a week in early November, just the two of us. We left
the kids at home. We made plans to fly on American
and stay at the Holiday Inn Sunspree from November 2nd
to the 9th. We arrived at Logan (Boston) at 3:30 AM
for our 5:30 flight. Check-in at American was quick
and painless, and by 4:15 we were waiting in line for
security to open at 4:30. We made an hour stop in
Miami before continuing on to Aruba. We landed in
Aruba about 1:30, quickly retrieved our luggage from
the carousel, and got through customs with no lines.
We elected to take a taxi to the Holiday Inn Sunspree,
instead of taking the De Palm bus that was included in
our package. There was no line at check-in. After
confirming that our room was in one of the two
renovated towers, we rode the elevator to the 4th
floor and to room 6423. We were happy with the
layout, cleanliness and spaciousness of the room. It
had a king size bed, with a bright blue nautical
coverlet; two bureaus, one encasing the TV; a balcony
with two chairs and a small table; a sofa, table and
two chairs; and a fairly big bathroom with a long
shelf for storing toiletries.
I think our feet hit the sand before 3:00. Exiting
the hotel, you first come upon two pools. The first
one was the deepest, at six feet at one end. At this
end was a waterfall type of thing, about ten feet in
circumference at the top, with water cascading down
all around it, where you could either get wet or swim
underneath it to stay dry. Between the two pools was
a walking bridge. The second pool was more shallow
and frequented by young children. At the further end
of this was a hot tub. With the hot and sunny
weather, we didn’t feel the need to use it. At the
hottest part of the day, the temperatures reached 91
degrees, with a lot of humidity. In the evening, it
was still hot and sticky.
Going past the first pool toward the beach, you come
upon a beach bar serving cocktails and fast food.
Beyond this was the towel hut, where you were only
allowed to have one towel per person. After getting
our towels, we found two lounge chairs and positioned
them near the water. Every day, we would go from
hanging in the pool and going in the ocean, with stops
in between for frozen concoctions at the bar. Such a
tough life, I know, but somebody has to do it. Might
as well be us.
It seems that a lot of people on tripadvisor slam the
Holiday Inn, but we were very happy during our stay
here. My friend is used to living the high life, and
I too am used to staying at very nice resorts, so we
weren’t sure how we’d feel about the HI after reading
the bad and tepid reviews. I’m glad to report that we
were both very happy. Our only complaint was that
during the construction, only one elevator was
working. This would sometimes result in a long wait
at the elevator. We also had a problem with guest
services one night, about a dinner reservation that
I’ll talk about below.
The beach was very nice, with no litter and nice
sand. No matter what time of day we got to the beach,
we’d always find two chairs and a spot for them.
There was an attendant who would bring the chairs
where you wanted them, and then lay out the towel
across the top, tucking in the ends so they wouldn’t
come loose. We did not dine at the HI, except at the
beach bar where we ordered fish tacos. There was
plenty of room in both pools, and they never felt
crowded. The pools and premises were kept clean. I’d
be happy to stay here again.
At some point, we walked on the beach, past Playa
Linda, the Hyatt and to the brand new Rui. On the way
back, we stopped at the Hyatt to check it out. We
went in their pool and ordered a drink at the swim-up
bar. At Joe’s suggestion, we made a dinner
reservation at their restaurant,
Ruinas del Mar for
later that evening. For dinner, we sat outside by the
water, sipping our martinis and watching the two black
swans swim by. Joe had the mixed grill and I had the
bacon wrapped scallops and shrimp over linguine.
Service was very attentive, the atmosphere lovely, and
the food delicious, a great way to kick off our
culinary adventure for the week. Thus ends the first
day.
On Saturday, our first full day, we started out with
breakfast at Dushi Bagels. Service was slow and the
food was just okay. I know lots of people on
tripadvisor rave about the place, but we didn’t find
it anything special. We hung out at the beach all
day. In the afternoon, we walked on the beach in the
other direction, toward the Marriott resorts. We
stopped at Moomba’s Beach Bar for lunch and a drink.
There was a beach tennis tournament in full swing
here, with all Dutch people competing. Boy, do they
all look alike, in a good way. Tall, thin, blond,
small noses and blue eyes. We were the only non-Dutch
here, except for the wait staff.
We were less than impressed with the three Marriott
resorts. There was a lot of seaweed at the water’s
edge, the rooms were far from the beach, and the look
of the place was just blah. There was also a lot of
construction going on, although we noticed it
everywhere this week.
At the end of the day, we talked to a man from
Toronto, who had been in Aruba all week and commented
that they hadn’t had a good sunset all week. Aha, we
thought, that’s why all these people are perched on
their chairs, cameras in hand. It looks like they’ll
finally be a sunset to capture. For dinner, we ate at
the famous Madam Janette’s, which was our favorite
meal of the trip. We started off by sharing a Caesar
salad and bread with sliced onions. We each had the
almond crusted grouper, their signature dish. For
dessert, we shared a chocolate soufflé. The meal can
be summed up this way: Yummy. Thus ends our first
full day in dreamy Aruba.
On Sunday, we did much of the same. Sitting, reading
and sipping cocktails in the pool, swimming in the
ocean, lounging on and walking the beach. However,
today was a bit different. We saw Aloe Man. He is an
Aruban who walks the beach, selling liquid, bottled
aloe. He even has a business card that he handed to
Joe. In turn, Joe handed him his card.
We started off this morning with a walk down the
street to Dunkin’ Donuts, across from the Playa Linda.
This became our routine for the rest of the week.
Only two flavors of coffee, hazelnut and French
vanilla, but ahh, tastes just like they make it at
home. As we walked back toward the resort, we noticed
that Amici’s was serving breakfast, so we sat outside
at a table to order. Joe had the French toast, and I
had the yogurt and fruit cup. Very good.
In the afternoon, we walked a short distance to
Pelican Pier for a drink and snack out on the water.
From here, we had a new view of our hotel. We watched
the sunset and then went to the room to get ready for
dinner. We had confirmed with the hotel’s guest
services our dinner reservation at Marandi’s for that
evening, and we were assured that our reservation was
all set. We took a long cab ride to the other side of
the island, only to find that the restaurant was
closed. The taxi driver took us to Marina Pirata
after calling them to make sure they were open. The
food was just okay. Our table was right at the
water’s edge but because of the darkness, we couldn’t
see anything. Occasionally we’d hear a splash in the
water as fish came up to feed.
On Monday, we rented a jeep from Avis. It was lots of
fun driving around the island over the next three
days. We started out with a silver Jeep, but when the
lights flicked off one night while driving, and with
the radio not working at all, Joe traded it in for a
newer, better, red one the next day. The first day,
we explored a bit of the island. First, we took a
ride to the Mill Resort, where we would be staying
with the kids for Christmas week.
It was located at the very beginning of Palm Beach,
across from the Westin and the beach, its only
drawback from what we had seen. The staff was very
accommodating and showed us a suite like the one we
would be occupying. You first enter an open doorway
which faces three doors marked A, B, C. Each door is
one room of the three bedroom suite. One suite has a
king bed with Jacuzzi, another two queen beds, and a
third a king bed with kitchen. The pool was large and
clean, and the rest of the resort looked great. Joe
and I asked two different groups of people if they
enjoyed their stay at the resort, and both had been
here several times before.
After this, we drove to the California lighthouse at
the northwest end of the island, driving past several
beaches on the leeward side like Arashi and Boca
Catalina. Each beach had several huts to sit under
and space for parking. We noticed a few ships
stopping at Boca, with lots of people snorkeling in
the water here. From the hill, we had a nice view of
the leeward side of the island, from Arashi to the
high rise hotel zone. We could even see the haystack
mountain in the distance. Facing the other side, we
could see the coastal side of the island, its rough
surf making it unsuitable for swimming.
Then we drove to Eagle Beach, also known as the low
rise area. This is much quieter and less developed
than Palm Beach. We had a 1:00 appointment at the Spa
del Sol at Manchebo Beach Resort. I had booked us a
mini sol package, consisting of 15 minutes each in the
Jacuzzi and eucalyptus scented steam room, an hour
massage (aromatherapy for me, deep tissue for Joe), a
mini-facial and a pedicure. The massage and facial
were done in a hut on the beach, which we shared.
Since we arrived early for our appointment, we stopped
at the resort’s bar for lunch and a drink. Here I had
the best drink all week – a frozen drink made of three
layers: blue Curacao, pina colada, and strawberry.
The food was very good – club sandwich for Joe, burger
for me. We liked the look of this resort and its
location, although the pool was very small. It seems
that every resort has its drawbacks, and this was the
Manchebo’s.
The spa was a wonderfully relaxing and indulgent treat
in an idyllic setting. White, soft sand beckoned our
feet to sink into it, and beyond, the sparkling
turquoise water called out to us with its gentle
waves. Stone statues of beautifully classic women
with aquiline noses and pursed lips, long limbed and
head resting in hand, water trickling from their
bases, giving life to the vibrantly red and lushly
green plants below, were scattered throughout the spa.
Frogs holding golden parasols guarded entrances and
stood sentry outside huts, limiting access to only the
privileged. Teak, slatted huts with thatched roofs
holding dual massage tables were artfully arranged
along the wooden walkway surrounded by lush greenery
and stately palm trees. Outside our hut lay our
bathing suits drying on a wooden rack, nestled between
an aloe plant set in a stone planter and our frog
sentry.
We lingered as long as we could after our treatment
had ended, relaxing on the curved, wooden loungers
while sipping cold water, comfortably ensconced in our
spa bathrobe. As I described it, we were blissed out.
With great effort and a few hints from the staff, we
showered, changed and (the only negative), paid the
bill.
That evening, continuing in the same indulgent vein,
we returned to Eagle Beach to have dinner at a new
restaurant called Screaming Eagle. Since we were
early for our reservation, we asked to be seated in
the lounge area in order to have a drink before having
dinner at a table. We walked up a few steps to an
elevated area surrounded by white bedding on the
floor, with scattered pillows and small tables in
front of them. Separating this area from the bar and
restaurant were softly gathered white sheer curtains.
Next to this was an area below us that had actual
queen sized beds covered in white.
After finishing our martinis, we were escorted to a
table where we were served a sample size of mushroom
soup – excellent – and a pate nibble. Joe started off
with carpaccio of artichoke and we shared a plate of
grilled calamari. I had the grilled veal scallopini.
A wonderful meal in an elegant setting, with a twist.
On Tuesday, we set off for an all day adventure in the
Jeep. First, we drove through downtown Oranjestad,
and past the airport, through Savaneta and onto San
Nicholas, where the Valero oil refinery is located.
Joe took a left and drove through the desert area of
Seroe Colorado, pausing briefly in front of a large
anchor standing at a fork in the road. Here we
could catch sight of the ocean on the coastal side of
the island, where swimming is prohibited due to the
rough surf and strong undertow. Joe took a left and
parked at the base of a cliff, where the Aruba prison
is located. As we got out of the car, we looked up
toward the cliff and noticed a line of goats standing
atop the hill. Joe captured photos of one of them
nimbly making his way down the hill and then up again.
Next, we got back in the Jeep and drove to the
leeward coast, stopping at Baby Beach, located at the
southeastern most tip of Aruba. We swam in the
shallow, clear water, greatly enjoying the chance to
cool off on another hot day.
We knew there was a place to eat nearby, as we had
passed signs indicating a restaurant called Coco
Beach. Joe stopped to ask a worker for directions,
when a cab driver heard us and beckoned, saying,
"Follow me." The restaurant was away from Baby Beach
and toward the refinery, nestled in an area next to
another beach and far below the road we had been on.
We enjoyed a delicious, inexpensive lunch with a
perfect view of the ocean and small beach, as long as
we didn’t look toward the oil refinery behind us.
While eating, we were entertained by a topless woman
who kept running in and out of the water, occasionally
stopping to pause for photos taken by her friend. Joe
had a seafood platter of fried calamari rings, grilled
shrimp and other fish. I had the grouper au menuire,
naturally called "the catch of the day" on the menu,
accompanied by perfectly cooked and flavorful white
rice, plantains, and pancakes. What an unexpected and
delightful surprise Coco Beach turned out to be. We
vowed to remember this place to take the kids next
month.
Next, we drove through the Arikok National Park,
closely following a sedan in front of us as it
carefully wended its way through the rutted path. We
marveled at the driver’s courage (or foolishness) to
ride through such rugged terrain. We stopped at the
so-called "Visitor’s Complex," as noted on the map,
which consisted of a man in a narrow booth who gave us
a handwritten map, such as it was, of the park. Next,
we came to a fork in the road, with a wooden barrier
and a man directing us away from the main path, which
was under construction. Bravely, we soldiered on,
passing lots and lots of cactuses in Aruba’s desert
setting, until we finally came to a clearing and a
view of the ocean. We stopped at Boca Prin to see the
waves crashing into a cove below us. The water was a
beautiful blend of several shades of vibrant blue and
it seemed a tease that we couldn’t go in.
Next, we drove a short way to Quadirikiri caves and
had the last tour of the day with a park ranger, who
pointed out the Indian drawings on its walls and how
the water that constantly dripped onto a rock
formation was causing the rock to grow bigger by
slowly adding layers to it.
Today was a long but wonderful day spent exploring
Aruba, from its beaches to the desert, swimming and
four wheeling and just enjoying the beauty and
diversity of the island.
We went to a grocery store to stock up on some basic
supplies like Balashi beer, Corona’s, a bottle of
wine, crackers, cheese and meats. That evening, while
sitting on the beach waiting for the sun to set, we
drank Balashi’s and enjoyed our snacks. Then we went
swimming until it began to get dark.
For dinner, we ate at Chef’s Tables, which was very
good. Joe had the trio of tuna, shrimp and scallops,
and I had the Tenderloin dish, with two black angus
tenderloin medallions with angel hair pasta, cashew
nuts, spring unions, ginger sauce and sesame oil. We
shared a pitcher of red sangria. For dessert, the
restaurant offered tapas for $2.00 each, with ten
different kinds. Each one came in a tiny glass,
accompanied by a tiny spoon. Before we ordered, the
waitress brought over a small jar filled with about
twenty toothpicks, which we thought was odd. She
explained, "This is the size of each tapas." When she
walked away, Joe said, "She’s kidding, right? This is
some kind of joke, huh?" Joe just had to try one, so
he asked for the banana split. Yes, it really was
that small.
Wednesday, November 7th, was our last day with the
jeep. We drove to Casibari rocks and climbed to the
top for an expansive view of Aruba, its desert and
homes and in the distance, a cruise ship docked in
Oranjestad. We drove out to the natural bridge sight,
except that the natural bridge is no longer there.
I’m not sure why visitors continue to drive out here
(as we did), as there is nothing to see but water that
you cannot go in because of the dangerous undertow.
There was also a ruin here, which we didn’t bother to
explore. On the way back, we managed to find road
signs that pointed us in the right direction of the
California lighthouse. In this area, a landmark that
helped to orient us was what is called the haystack, a
large mountain with an antenna on top. Since there
are no street signs and few route signs to guide
drivers, you have to pay attention to landmarks such
as this.
As we made our way through the towns of Santa Cruz and
Paradera, Joe and I both noticed a cemetery next to a
church. We parked here and wandered through, taking
photos and noting the stacks of caskets, piled three
high, lining the perimeter. We also saw groups of
four caskets, two by two, some not yet occupied. The
graves were mostly covered with artificial flowers,
photos and keepsakes.
We stopped to swim at Arashi Beach for awhile, laying
our blankets under an unoccupied hut. The water was
much clearer here than at Palm Beach. At our hotel,
we couldn’t see our feet in the water and the color
was a bit greenish. Here, the water was clear and
aqua blue, and warmer. I hunted for seashells to
bring home to my son, and we drank our Corona’s. We
even had limes that Joe had cut using his handy dandy
jackknife set. At about four, we set off for
Oranjestead, where I found a bathing suit in a shop at
the Renaissance Marina hotel. We bought beach
cover-ups for me and our daughters, shark necklaces
and iguana T shirts for the boys, and a keychain with
the slogan "Aruba One Happy Island" for me. For a
snack, we climbed the stairs to Mambo Jambo’s, where
we ate nachos and drank frozen daiquiris. I don’t
recommend this place, except for the view. Service
was slow and the nachos just okay.
I don’t remember the rest of the day, but I’m sure the
end of it was spent on the beach, swimming and waiting
for the sunset. That night, we dined alfresco at
Ventanas del Mar, at the Tierra Sol golf resort. Joe
ordered the veal chop and I had the salmon. Both were
delicious. For dessert, we shared (well, I ate) a
peanut butter chocolate brownie with vanilla ice
cream. We had to leave soon after eating, as the
mosquitoes were starting to bite. This was the only
place that we had encountered any.
On our last full day, Thursday, November 8th, we drove
the Jeep until it was time to turn it back in to Avis.
First, we walked to Dunkin’ Donuts, per usual, and
sat outside drinking our coffees. Then we got in the
car and drove past Eagle Beach and onto downtown
Oranjestead, where we gassed up. For the rest of the
day, we spent it on the beach. We had been away from
the resort for the last few days and wanted to spend
the last two days enjoying it. We ate lunch at the
Holiday Inn’s beach hut, both of us getting fish
tacos. As usual, we spent time in both the ocean and
pool. That evening, we returned to Madam Jeanette’s
and ordered the signature dish again. It was with a
heavy heart that we finished our last dinner in Aruba.
On Friday, we got up fairly early to enjoy another
couple of hours on the beach. Then we finished
packing and changed out of our bathing suits. We had
lunch at Texas de Brazil, located across from our
hotel. The salad bar was expansive and delicious, and
the meats just kept on coming. After lunch, we just
had enough time to get our bags and take a taxi to the
airport.
Wow, a week in Aruba goes by much more quickly than a
week at home. I did miss the kids, but I didn’t miss
the rest of my life – work, cleaning, supper, sitting
in traffic, etc. The good news? We will be back! In
December, with the kids. I can’t wait.
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